Inspections and "To-Do's"

Check Off Time

Before Each Use

Make sure ALL safety items are shipshape! *(You should carry extras if needed.)

Have bleach for your ballast tank. *(Don't spread nasties from one body of water to another.)

Inspect all turnbuckle, cotter pins, clips, etc.

Inspect any connection points for signs of fatigue.

Inspect all rigging tape. Replace when needed.

Inspect all lines. (rudder, keel, mast, boom, topping lift, sheets, furler, etc.)

Inspect trailer; Bearing grease, electrical connections, tire condition, lug nuts, tire air pressure, lights and bulbs, paint/rust spots, winch belt, ball hitch, and loose fasteners.

If you installed an air-chamber inspection port, look for signs of water.

Inspect hull for chips, cracks, and "blemishes". Unless it's an emergency, mark anything found for a repair in the near future.

Check engine. Also be sure any gasket for the fuel connection is working. (Oil level, available fuel, general controls.)

If needed, clean Head system.

When your partially completed, that's called "Making Headway" (humor intended)

Have enough provisions? (fuel, food & water, etc.)

Each Use

Inspect launch ramp for problem areas above and below water. If possible use a boat hook, the rear mast crutch, gin pole, or a fishing pole, etc. to check water depth. Older ramps might have a drop-off that will put a damper on your day. Also remember that once the water ballast tank is filled the boats will float a little bit lower. You might need slightly more ramp to get the water depth needed to remove the boat.

Check motor for cooling water flow. (Water Pump)

Check before hitting the open road; (mast, rudder, keel, if you use trailering strap(s) they are secure, and no loose "fly-away" items are in the cockpit)

Clean any food/drink items. (Stains, spillage, etc.)

At the end of your sail, you should disconnect the fuel line and run your engine dry if it is a two stroke engine. Four stroke engines can also but should not need to do this unless you're expecting a long layup.

After sailing, clean any large weed buildups from trailer.

Monthly

Check motor mount condition, transom, and fixtures.

If so equipped, check trailer brake fluid.

Check the tire, lugs, and bearing lube.

6 Month

(Mid Season)

Inspect transom mast-holding pole mount. Tighten if loose.
It's a matter of time before the factory screw's fail. It's best to replace them with through-bolts. (Don't forget to seal them.)

Using water resistant grease & apply to water ballast screw threads.

Inspect all electrical connections & wiring.

Inspect water ballast drain plug and seal.

Inspect the transom drains for signs of separation and internal leakage.

Spray McGaurd lube, (or similar non-staining dry lube). (Mainsail's bolt rope, block bearings, Furling unit, Etc.)

Recondition Teak wood or as needed.

Inspect trailer for general problems. (bunks, winch condition, axle hitting keel, bending of bunk supports, any rust area. If possible check that brakes are working.)

Inspect long bolts holding tabernacle's triangle-plates on bottom of mast. The bolts can bend or wear thin at the contact points.

Yearly

(S=Spring, F=Fall, A=Anytime)

Carefully snug all non-through bolts. Window screws, rub rail screws, Mast holding base screws.

Check all through bolts for tightness.

If necessary, lube trailer bearings.

Inspect chainplates and other high-stress areas, (Stanchions, Deck forestay mount, Etc.), for signs of fatigue and gelcoat cracking. The sealing may leak after many years and cause the deck core to go soft.

Check for any signs of leakage. Reseal or patch as needed. (Ports, inside of rubrails, Etc.)

Check any through hull fittings and ability to seal water out..

Clean all sails, rollup, and store in cool dark area. Very carefully "hot knife", (melt), any frayed threads.

Remove and Inspect through bolts. (mast/shroud attachment, mast base/tabernacle, rudder post above & below the waterline.)

Remove and inspect spreader bar. The bar may bend during trailering setup.

Inspect upper forestay/furler & mount. Clear any rotational resistance and lube with a dry lubricant. Replace if resistance is not repairable.

Inspect stock upper forestay through-bolt for signs of bending and possible fatigue.

Remove and inspect rudder post for wear, rudder for cracks and chips, and tiller for wear and blemishes. While your at it clean & reseal the top and bottom rudder post bushings.

Mast angle. *(Tip forward=add lee helm but good for downwind sailing.
Tip rearward=add weather helm but good for reaching.
Never have any preset side-angle on mast.)

Check things made of nylon. Including washers, spreader ends (where the shrouds contact), water ballast plug, etc. for UV destruction.

Remove tires and drums if needed so you can inspect the trailer brakes. (See below for stud re-tightening), bleed the brake fluid lines and master, and check the condition of the tongue assembly for proper operation and condition.)

Inspect trailer suspension parts.

For tire storage, remove weight by blocking up and/or removing. Lower tire air PSI to about 15-20 PSI. Store in cool dark area or cover from sun. Refill them next season. If you don't remove the tires, cover them from the sun's rays.

Empty all fuel. Remove tank before storage of boat. Supply new fresh fuel next season. *Important not to use old "oxygenated" winter fuel.

Inspect and clean battery & posts. Replace if needed.

Clean cover's, tarp, lines.

Wash and protect Hull, Deck. (Include Mast & Spreaders if used in salt water environment.)

Inspect anchor and rhode.

Inspect electrical system. (lights, sockets, wires, switches, etc.)

Get an updated Federal Requirements booklet and a FREE safety inspection from the USCG Auxiliary.

Five Years

Replace both rudder lines.

Replace the keel lift line. (You may need to pay a boat lifting service to do this.)